New route on the SW face of Wolfberg in the “Gold Rush” sector
FA: Simon Larsen & John Crumley – 25 October 2014
Start: approx. 20 m left of “After the Gold Rush” there is wonderful looking clean golden juggy face. Unfortunately it is undercut by a small overhang and a seam of white vertical sand. Fortunately the sand seam pinches out on the right hand side at the foot of a leftward tending ramp.
Pitch 1: 30m F1 Pull through the undercut (cairn) and climb the ramp. At the top, step rightward into the base of a clean juggy runnel. Climb this to a big ledge.
Pitch 2: 35m F2 Walk diagonally right across the big ledge to the base of a straight vertical crack below a big square flake that seems to cling to a flat wall about 10m up (cairn). Climb the crack passing left of the flake and up to a small roof. Pull through the roof on huge jugs into a runnel which feeds onto a clean grey face. Climb to the higher of two long ledges.
Pitch 3: 35m F2 Walk approx. 5m left to where an undercut juggy wall curves outwards (cairn). Climbing this wall allows one to bypass the roof above, and leads one into the bottom of a large water chute. Follow the chute upwards into a vertical crack. Climb the crack, passing around an awkward block, to the top where one is forced right onto a small ledge. Climb the short face above to a grassy ledge (cairn).
Pitch 4: 20m F3/G1 Climb the shallow overlap at the back of the ledge to gain a shallow ramp which lies immediately left of a vague arête. Follow the ramp upwards until it merges with the arête. Moving one 1m left allows one to pull up the face to gain a rail below the final overlap. A tricky mantle puts you at the top of the route (cairn)
