el Matador (19) ****

A fairly direct route up the centre of the Bullshoot Prow, blasting straight through the traverses of Bullshoot. Takes in some steepish climbing, breaking through two roofs, including the intimidating-looking double tier roof near the top of pitch 3. Good climbing with excellent gear all the way.

[su_row][su_column size=”1/2″ center=”no” class=””]El-Matador-1[/su_column] [su_column size=”1/2″ center=”no” class=””]

FA: Tony Lourens, Willie Koen 11 Oct 2015

Check the approach details for Bullshoot in the Cape Peninsula Select guidebook.

Start: About 20 metres to the left of Bullshoot, at a short slit beneath a ledge with double blocks on it.

1. 20m 15: Climb the slit and stand on top of the double blocks. Step off right onto the face and climb more-or-less straight up, pulling through some small overlaps on the way, to reach a big ledge.

2. 15m 17: Slightly to the right of where pitch 1 ends is a short undercut layback slit. Climb up to the right of this to a ledge. Step slightly left and climb the short steepish face to gain a long protruding block. Step off the right end of the block and swing across the slightly undercut wall to a good foothold beneath a small roof. Pull through this on excellent layaways for the left hand and a good pocket for the right, to gain easier ground and a small but good stance up and off to the right.

3. 20m 19: Move up the flakey fault to the base of a corner/groove (crossing Bullshoot). Pull awkwardly into this and continue up (still awkwardly) till able to stand more comfortably on a shelf on the left. Move up steeply, but on fairly good holds till able to mantleshelf onto a long platform. Move higher (crossing Bullshoot again), using a good jutting prong, to below the big roof. Pull up to the left on a good rail beneath the lip of the roof and break through using the huge flake system above. Continue more easily to the big ledge above.

Descent: Walk of to the left into Africa Ravine and down this to the base of the route.