New trad route at Rooiberg, Cederberg. Get the Cederberg Wolfberg guide for all the info on where and how to get to this climbing area.
FA: D. Mercer and A. Wienand, 25 January 2009
Start: The route starts from the same level as the sport climbs on the Coolio Wall, approximately 4m to the right of Too Hot to Handle.
P1 – 30m 14: Climb straight up the wall to the ledge above.
P2 – 30m 15: Directly above the last pitch is an undercut bulge. Climb to the left of the bulge till able to move right and onto the top of the bulge. Move straight up for 6m to a rail beneath a large overhang. Traverse left along the rail for 3m and pull up where the overhang peters out. Climb up to a ledge on the right. Walk right along the ledge for 5m till able to a recess and exit left onto a long ledge.
P3 – 12m 11: Climb a crack that flares higher up into a narrow chimney. At the top of the crack follow a ledge to the left for 4 m to belay below a small tree growing from a crack below an overhang.
P4 – 30m 17: Climb onto a thin projecting slab on the left and then stem across the corner above the tree. Follow the corner crack to the next ledge. Climb easily diagonally up and left to belay beneath an overhang in the top left hand corner of the face.
P5 – 10m 19: Climb the awkward layback/offwidth crack through the right hand end of the overhang. Exit onto a ledge on the left above. A number 5 Camalot will make the crux move far less scary (a number 4 barely fits low in the crack).
Descent: Follow the top of the cliff to the left until the Rooiberg path beacons are found. Follow the path back down to the base of the crag.
Note: An easier alternative to P5 would be to traverse around the corner on the left and then climb a short stepped face to the top.