Montagu Routes

The Palace

by

An awesome crag with a bunch of fine, steep intimidating routes.

Approach

From Supertubes, continue with the path for another 5 or 6 minutes, to a point where the path and the kloof do a big and obvious swing to the left. At this bend, on the right of the path you will see a small open scree with some cairns. This marks the path to the Palace. Leave the main path here and cross the scree to enter long reeds. Continue for a few metres and look out for a possibilty to go left (it is easy to make the mistake of continuing straight). Follow the path through reeds, along a watery stream, via some stepping stones, to reach the other side of the river. From here scramble up some rock steps, then head diagonally up to the right, till able to scramble up to the base of the crag.

  1. Bad Cop, No Donut *** 24/7a [5B,C]
    J. Samson 2004
  2. German Route ** 22/6c? [5B,C]
    Unknown
  3. Fire Flight *** 21/6b+ [9B,C]
    C. Edelstein Aug 2021
  4. Icarus **** 23/6c+ [12B,C]
    S. Brown 2010
  5. Virtual Light *** 22/6c [9B,C]
    E. Pelser March 2021
  6. Elegantly Wasted *** 26/7b [10B,C]
    J. Temple-Forbes 1999
  7. S1O2 *** 25/7a+ [10B,C]
    J. Orton 2004
  8. Lexi’s Route *** 25/7a+ [7B,C]
    Unknown
  9. Keep on Going *** 26/7b [9B,C]
    A. Davies 2006
    Extension of Lexi’s Route
  10. Cyberpunk * 25/7a+ [9B,C]
    R. Nattrass 1996
  11. Archangel **** 27/7b+ [10B,C]
    E. Pelser Aug 2020
  12. Moonaboos *** 27/7b+ [10B,C]
    J. Orton 1999
  13. Count Zero *** 25/7a+ [9B,C]
    E. Pelser March 2021
  14. Shagadelic *** 23/6c+ [8B,C]
    J. Orton 2000
  15. Shagadelic Supreme **** 23/6c+ [10B,C]
    A. Davies 2006
    Extension of Shagadelic
  16. Darwin **** 26/7b [9B,C]
    E. Pelser Dec 2020
  17. Burning Chrome *** 28/7c [14B,C]
    R. Nattrass 1995
  1. Mona Lisa Overdrive **** 29/7c+ [17B,C]
    P. Olivier 2017
    Extension of Burning Chrome
  2. Judge Dredd *** 29/7c+ [13B,C]
    R. Nattrass 1996
  3. Judge Lisa **** 30/8a [16,C]
    A. Biffi 2020
    Climbs Judge Dread to the anchors, then finishes up Mona Lisa Overdrive.
  4. Strange Days **** 31/8a+ [5B,C]
    E. Wiercx 1997
  5. Strangely Active **** 32/8b [12B,C]
    C. Martinengo 2008
    Start up Strange Days, then at the last bolt before the anchors, go right, onto the Activist, and finish on that route.
  6. About Time *** 27/7b+ [12B,C]
    C. Martinengo 2004
  7. The Activist **** 30/8a [11B,C]
    R. Nattrass 1995
  8. The Neuromancer * 23/6c+ [9B,C]
    R. Nattrass 1995
  9. Johnny Pneumonic **** 18/6a [6B,C]
    E. Pelser Nov 2021
  10. Mad Max (wimp) *** 13/4b [7B,C]
    S. Brown 2002
  11. Mad Max *** 21/6c+ [14B,C]
    S. Brown 2002
    Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between the wimp pitch and the top pitch.
  12. Psycho Ranger (wimp) *** 15/5a [6B,C]
    S. Brown 2002
  13. Psycho Ranger *** 20/6b [13B,C]
    S. Brown 2002
    Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between the wimp pitch and the top pitch.